Bageshwar travel guide

Bageshwar is trekking country, the start of the Pindari and Kafni glacier trails, with Kausani's tea-garden views next door.

Bageshwar sits at the confluence of the Saryu and Gomati rivers around the old Bagnath temple, but for most travellers the district is really the trailhead of Kumaon, the place where the road ends and the glacier walks begin.

The Pindari Glacier trek is the headline. It is the most accessible of the Himalayan glacier treks: a 40 to 45 km, week-long walk up the Pindar valley to Zero Point, staying in villages and KMVN huts rather than high camps, which keeps it within reach of fit first-timers. The trail runs below Nanda Devi and Nanda Kot, and Bageshwar town is the natural supply base for it.

The trek fits inside a wider Kumaon circuit anchored on Kausani, the ridge village Gandhi called the 'Switzerland of India', about 40 km from Bageshwar town. Its tea gardens and dawn view of Trisul and Nanda Devi make it the soft landing before or after the walk, and Baijnath's ninth-century temple cluster sits in the valley between.

The seasons are firm here: April to June and September to November. The monsoon closes the valley with landslides and winter shuts the upper huts, so the shoulder months give clear peaks and open trails.